Summer Love Tour part IV (How To Travel Cheap in Sweden)

Part IV: BACK TO NATURE

Read part III                          Read part II                       Read part I

Free sightseeing: Holmön- the sunniest place in Sweden

After some time in the middle of Sweden, we craved to see Mother Ocean and, thus, headed straight to the coast and Holmön, just outside Umeå. The ferry from Norrfjärden is free and takes about 20 minutes. We truly enjoyed the quietness and openness Nature offers on this magic island by strolling around the forest, visiting a light house (that is also a hostel actually) and cooked lunch on the bare rocks, overlooking the wind stroking the waves. 

Free accommodation: Forest Camping

In the late afternoon, we caught the boat back and drove North East of Umeå to find a lake with a good camp site. During those days, we had a rental car- which is great when looking for a more quiet place to camp. It was beautiful to meditate with the sun dancing over the fresh water, swim in the warm lake and cook over the fire- much needed before heading in to town again. 

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Camping outside Umeå, Sweden

Staying with friends For the following nights, we stayed with another Sofia Magdalena- yet a very special Yogini who offered her love, her presence and Umeå's best view. Thank you -- much Love, always! <3

City Camping After having had my last Park Yoga in Umeå (for this year ;) ), we had a delicious Vegan meal at the-place-to-be 'Båten'. Following a tip I received from a piano-playing traveler, with eyes brown like the deer and deep like the forest, we wandered across a bridge through a residential area and down to the river (Umeälven), where we found a perfect place to camp. As the sun became redder (rather than setting), we sat watching kids play with their scooters in the water, the boat (Båten, where we just were) and listening to the ongoing Music Festival from a park on the other side of the river. Wahe Guru, magic light! When all was quiet, we put our tent up for a few hours sleep.

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Traveling TIPS on free stuff:

Camping according to Allemansrätten

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Allemansrätten rules

Library Hangout: To charge devices and/or use internet. In big cities you might need a library card (it's free to get one). 

Toilets: The church. Good because you can see it from anywhere you are and it is open for everybody. And they have free toilets (remember to check their opening hours!). 

Where do you store your backpack for the day? Keep in mind that most towns, especially the smaller ones, don't have lockers to store big bags at the town's station(s). However, try locating the tourist information office and ask if they have any suggestions. If you're only in town for a few hours (they usually close at 6pm), they'll most likely let you store the bag in their office for free.

Wahe Guru, Magic Light! By Umeälven in Umeå, Sweden

While in Umeå, we also dusted off a good ol' backpacker hangout: spending half the night at the train station. In Norrland during summer this is perfect 'cause it's never dark; it is warm and quiet. Add some quality company to that and you have some legit travellers' groove ;)

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Umeå Train Station, Sweden

Did I miss any essentials? What kind of tips do you want me to write about? Send me an email or write in the "comments" below! 

Love and Light

/OM

Summer Love Tour part III (How to Travel Cheap)

Backpacking Mora - Östersund - Umeå

Read Part I

Read Part II

Stop Drop and Yoga in Mora, Dalarna, Sweden

Mythic creatures in Mora, Sweden. 

The story continues with one day in the tiny winter village called Mora. This is where the famous ski cross-country competition Vasaloppet finishes (the world's longest competition being 90 km). We strolled around town for a few hours, waiting for our adventure to continue north in the afternoon when we got on a train called Inlandsbanan. This is the only train driving inland AND it offers a great sightseeing opportunity, thus we decided to travel all the way to Östersund. During the trip, we had a guide telling us anecdotes, we crossed a cataract from a 35 meters high bridge constructed in 1928, visited a deserted bear's nest and stopped for dinner in the middle of nowhere. Needless to say, it was beautiful, confusing and a lot of fun! 

The bear's nest along Inlandsbanan, Jämtland, Sweden. 

Sightseeing tip:
Catch Inlandsbanan to see and experience something different (in this part of the country one normally travels along the coast line) while you're transporting yourself. 

We spent two nights at a camp site (traditional Swedish "camping") in Östersund, since we had to wash our clothes and shower. Despite the price, it was a good choice considering the cold and rain we had during that time.

Camping tip:
Most Swedish camp sites require you to have a membership in the Swedish camp site society (part of Camping Key Alliance), even if you stay only for a night. Why? No one really knows, but this way they can charge you extra (read about the camping key here). Hence, if you plan ahead you could either try finding a place that isn't connected to SCR, or if you're planning on spending more nights get the membership in advance. Most campings offer access to their facilities (such as laundry and shower) for a small fee even if you don't stay there, which is good to keep in mind. 

Jamtli 1895 Östersund Sweden 

Jamtli 1942, Östersund Sweden 

Besides doing laundry, we visited the biggest attraction they have in Östersund: Jamtli, the park that tells the story of Jämtland county during late 1700, mid 1800, early 1900 and the 1975 hippie era. Besides being a culture and nature precervance park with old houses from the area, cows, goats and horses- each century farm has actors showing the life of their time. In addition, the park contains a thoroughly museum, a handicraft store, an impressive restaurant, shows and a town square from the late 1800s. We enjoyed ourselves to the fullest, playing around as the kids we are, all day and of course made a longer stop at 1975 where we felt at home ;) For any backpacker in Sweden with an interest in history, nature, culture, traditions, farming etc, I warmly recommend visiting Jamtli (you'll need more than one day tho!) 

1975, Jamtli. The text says "...they agree with many others from the Green Wave, regarding criticism towards commercialism and wanting to live in unison with nature..."

Flower Power and Peace Bus from 1975, Jamtli Sweden 

Playing around in the town square, Jamtli Sweden

The further north you go in Sweden (and the inland in particular), the more remote everything gets. This is our wildlife area, the Swedish Outback or Jungle if you want, which also means difficulties in traveling around, finding information and the like. For instance, just as in many places around Latin America or Asia most towns/villages have two or more stations for buses and trains but no info so you do best asking around. Hitch-hiking in these areas are therefore time consuming due to empty roads. We decided to grab a few different buses to reach Umeå and the coast, where we went straight into the forest....

Bonus tip: 
Few cities have lockers big enough for backpacks in the train/bus stations but if you're in town only for a day try asking at the Tourist Center (Turistinformation). They usually store the bag for you until closing time ( 6pm) for 2 bucks or the like. 

Is there anything you want me to write about? Comment below! :)

Love and Light

/OM

"The one who wanders must carry everything everywhere. The Sami people dont have many objects, but they are strong, light and well made."  Jamtli museum

Summer Love Tour Part II (How To Travel Cheap in Sweden)

Read Part I here

Stockholm-Uppsala-Rättvik-Mora 

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Rättvik, Dalarna, Sweden

After having dropped the car off in Stockholm, my friend Alex picked us up and let us crash at his place. Me and Alex met many years ago, in Cuszco, Peru, and haven't seen each other in 3 years or so. Traveling is synonymous with making life long friends worldwide, and the best part: they are always just a text message away should I be nearby and need a floor to sleep on since they themselves understand the nomadic life. They also know about the best and many times secret places in their area, which means extra flavor to the trip;) Alex took us to a beautiful lake, surrounded by a quiet forest, showing us a new side to the Swedish capital. Our journey continued in that same friend-visiting spirit; we caught a train to Uppsala to meet lovely David for some yoga play and bubbling laughter. Uppsala showed us magic summer heat, green parks, a powerful church and a bunch of happy and curious yogis that wanted to partake in a Heart Opening Flow class. We gathered under a huge old tree in the park and as I guided them thru the class, more people joined in. It was a perfectly sunny and magic afternoon, thank you all! And thanks to David and Alex for taking us in to your homes - Much Love and Peace to you, always. 

Vegan Thai Food and tea after spreading love thru yoga in Uppsala!

For full moon, me and Ola headed north to Rättvik. Since we had short of time and it was surprisingly affordable, we decided to continue by train. In Sweden in General, however, one should never go by SJ train if it's avoidable. For obvious reasons:

Expensive: prices increase vastly the closer you are to departure date, last minute tickets do not exist, and they charge a lot more if you reserve a seat (please, never reserve a seat on trains!).
Baggage: there is absolutely no space for big rucksacks, suitcases and the like, which creates occasional chaos. 

Rättvik is situated next to the mythical lake Siljan (Sweden's 7th largest lake), and as the train stops at the station, she offers a spectacular view. In Dalarna, everything is like it always has been and the history, traditions, culture and typical Dala-houses are still very much alive. For these reasons- and of course the troll promising nature, me and Ola chose to stay for a while. We spent four days with a Swedish shaman at Läkegården, located in the forest just outside Rättvik. Here, too, we did work exchange (both By Magie services and carpeting) and thus got the opportunity to learn about and practice indigenous Swedish shamanism. In addition, we had time to visit sacred places such as Styggforsen waterfall and Dalhalla (a big lime stone quarry with a human made stage) and a few antiquities shops, which are also typical for the area and a must on a visit to Sweden! 

Styggforsen waterfall, Rättvik, Dalarna county, Sweden 

Since we don't have a car we decided to get around by foot and to hitchhike, which turned out to be a perfect combo in the Rättvik surroundings (despite heavy raining). In order to avoid SJ for our continuos travels, we do as we normally do in other countries: find local buses. Cheaper and easier. 

Random walking somewhere outside Rättvik, Sweden

Bonus tips transportation: 
Find out what county you are traveling in and and google it + "buses" and have a map ready as you browse thru the timetable. This is how we got to from Rättvik to Mora, where we're at right now.

Cheap accommodation tips:
1. Same as staying with friends is Coach Surfing and works well in Sweden too, especially when you need a place to crash just for the night. 
2. Work exchange exists in Sweden too. There are volunteer farms, WWOOFing and more around but you can also just go ahead and ask the place you want to visit, like we did at Läkegården. 

We are now heading towards Östersund, continuing our search for sublime nature, old wisdom and Love Exchange. 

How are you spending the holidays? comment below! 

Love and Light
/OM

Dalahäst in Mora, Dalarna county, Sweden. 

Space of Love Yoga Festival Sweden

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Paradise. Space of Love Yoga Festival Böda, Öland, Sweden 2014

There might not be words beautiful enough to depict the symphony of colours that danced and swirled between us as we created a bond that grew stronger and reached wider as the week unfolded itself in the Space of Love festival on Öland.

I have met soul mates and long lost friends. I have served the Fire and its guides during ancient ceremonies. I have danced barefoot in the soft grass and I have let the ocean stroke my naked body with her cold touch. I have felt the sand melt away between my fingers as time turns into non-existence and I have loved, laughed and cried. Endlessly. These moments are a constant waterfall of rainbows- we want it always. And I want You to be part of it too! So I let the pictures and poems speak to your heart and hope that next year, you will bathe with us in the waterfall of rainbows.

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Thank you Nina and Boris for inviting us to your wedding- the most magical celebration of Love imaginable!

For the curious ones: I woke as the sun rose over the beach during Sadhana at 4am with my beautiful hermana Mina, warmed and opened my body with magical Sky and Sama Yoga. I flowed thru dance workshops, attended Celtic Sweat lodges, swam in the ocean, played in the sand and let music wash through me before closing my eyes in my pink raspberry tent at night..... 

A big thank you to all the amazing teachers, guides and organizers that held and hold this space; to the participants for without them and their open hearts there would be no festival; to the musicians that create the soundtracks of our hearts' movements; and thank you to my beloved heart-family Sofia, David, Ruben and Marcus for making me fall in love over and over again. I love you dearly.

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Böda Sand, Space of Love festival Öland 2014

Tell us about your festival memories in the comments below!

Pura Vida Siempre

One Day in Malmö

The thing with big cities is that they might be difficult to get to know, especially if you’re only visiting for a couple of days. I like to put together One or Two days programs that offer a good chance to meet the soul of a city. Here is my attempt to do so for Sweden’s third largest city: Malmö.

Start your day early, so that you stroll the streets as the stores are starting their day. Empty streets during morning quietness are one of the secret beauties of City Life. Stroll around Möllan’s thrift store packed corners and look for hidden gems or alternative health shops. Continue to Astrid och Aporna, where you fill a basket with random organic and vegan goodies. No food planning, just pick the yummiest looking thing on the shelf to create a Vegan Smörgårdsbord feast later.

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After spending time in a food store, lunch is probably on the agenda. Head west towards the Agnes street and lovely Café Agnes. This popular and Mother Nature friendly pearl serves creative meals and sublime Fika (pastries). Its location, interior and charming patio are all characteristics that define Malmö. After a filling lunch, and despite being stuffed, buy a vegan brownie to go. Just do it you won’t regret it!

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Locate the central station and take a bus to its end stop. Find a yellow bus that says “Falsterbo” and pay with a bus card for a better deal. The ride is about an hour and shows you both ocean and big yellow rape field.

Walk over the sand dunes and let the turquoise ocean greet you. If you visit in spring or early summer: enjoy the stillness and gentle breeze. If it’s in July, try to find a spot for your towel in between German tourists. Bask in the sun until you remember the brownie you brought and decide to eat it while waves are stroking the shore.

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Falsterbo Beach, Malmö, Sweden

Take the bus back and spend the night cooking your random groceries. Maybe it turns out as Swedish vegan tapas. Try to use all your ingredients as you create a recap of the day in the kitchen.

If you happen to try this on a Tuesday, you might as well end a perfect day with a beautiful Kirtan gathering at Yoga Kendra on Friisgatan. If you’re out on a Saturday, on the other hand, why not bring the food to take a boat ride along the river, accompanied by live music. 

Do you have any hidden secret places you want to share? Please comment below! :)

Pura Vida